Vibrant, Colorful, Historic, Energetic! That is Mexico City
When we were trying to decide where to go for the holidays this year, my travel companion and I knew it would be somewhere in Mexico. We both love everything about this country and wanted to spend Festive there. She is more of a coastal person and I am more of a colonial city person but I was able to win her over with San Miguel de Allende. She had never been but I knew she would love the culture, pride, food, and warmth of the people there.
When I suggested we end the trip with a few days in Mexico City (referred to as CDMX), her first response was a resounding NO! She protested that she did not like large cities and Mexico City is one of the largest in the world. I promised her that CDMX is really just a collection of neighborhoods - almost 350 of them. But what matters is where you spend your time. I did warn her not to look out the plane window when we landed so she could keep trusting me, though!
I have spent some time on San Miguel on this blog so, here, I will only say that it was even more magical at Christmas. The sense of community, the posadas (parades), the food, the friendly, proud people - all of it made for one of my most favorite Christmas’ ever. What I will talk about here is Mexico City. A massive city, yes, but one full of so many wonders to discover.
Mexico City sits in what is referred to as the Valley of Mexico. It is actually a valley high in the mountains (elevation is over 7,000 feet) in the central region of Mexico. It is the capital of the country and home to almost 22 million people. As you fly in (the airport is still located in the center of the city) all you see from above is the city, endlessly displayed before you. And I mean endlessly. And the mountains that surround the city. It is actually a very beautiful area but very densely packed with people.
Mexico City carries much history. It is actually the oldest capital city in the Americas and was originally founded by indigenous people, which is rare. I won’t go into the long and storied history of the city on this post but just know that the old and the new mix everywhere in this city. It was originally built on a lake. As the lake dried up, the city started to sink as is still evident today. Many monuments and structures have been shored up over the years and you can still see the sinking evidence in buildings like the beautiful Museum of Fine Arts. Today, CDMX is a thriving, progressive and cosmopolitan metropolis.
As I said before, CDMX is made up of almost 350 neighborhoods in 16 districts that each have their own governing body. I, sadly, have only been to a handful or two but I hope to change that a little each time I go. I will briefly talk about the ones most frequented by visitors though I know this list is not complete. There are some up-and-coming ones that I am not familiar with so I will leave it to others to talk about them.
Centro Historico is at the very heart of the city and the name really says it all. It is both the enter of the city and contains remnants of the original history. Here you will find the majority of the 5-star hotels as it is closest to all there is to see. The Templo Mayor is here, the ruins of the ancient city of Tenochtitlan, which actually rest below the ground but can viewed from above as well. El Zocalo, the large central square, is a meeting place day or night for everyone. The Mexican communities make full use of their green spaces and squares to meet up with family and friends and El Zocalo is no exception. Great place for people watching. And while you are there, I recommend stepping into the Cathedral Metropolitana, the large church in the same area. It is absolutely stunning, as so many churches in Mexico are. Heading away from the Temple Mayor, you can stroll on Francisco Madero Ave, a wide pedestrian boulevard in the heart of the neighborhood. If you have time, find the House of Tiles. It houses a very busy restaurant and a collection of beautiful murals on both floors. Keep walking and you will find Alameda Park, a beautiful shaded public park full of fountains and benches to take a rest. Though there is so much more to see in this neighborhood, I will end with the Palacio Nacional, the building where the President actually conducts the business of the nation. Though you probably will not see him, do take some time to go see the building (it is free) and check out the gorgeous murals by the famed Mexican artist Diego Rivera.
I love to stay in the Polanco neighborhood. Polanco is an upscale neighborhood full of high end shopping and colonial mansions and luxury car dealerships though that is not why I stay there. It is also a foodie’s Mecca. Home to world renowned and Michelin starred restaurants Pujol and Quintonil (which, sadly, I have not been to YET), it is also home to so many other great restaurants, including two of my favorites, Carmela y Sal and Guzina Oaxaca. And there are many more right off of Lincoln Park, one of my favorite parks in the city. And, yes, a park in Mexico City is named after Abraham Lincoln. It is full of so many lovely ponds and fountains that it literally sparkles at night. I also love it in Polanco because I often travel solo and can stroll to and from dinner and hotel, always feeling extremely safe.
Condesa and Roma are sister neighborhoods where great food abounds. Both neighborhoods are more relaxed but both safe and lovely. I recommend a stop at the Mercado Roma, full of food stalls of delectable food. These are largely residential neighborhoods with lovely cafes and boutiques, still close enough to grab an Uber to wherever else you want to go.
Coyoacan is slightly out of the way so most visitors don’t stay there. Also, accommodations are harder to find here so it is usually a day trip for most. Coyoacan is a lovely neighborhood, full of colonial charm and considered a center for artists. There are shops and cafes and restaurants all easily walkable. The center square is shady and perfectly manicured, as are so, so many of the public spaces in Mexico City. There are a couple of great markets here that are worth a stop. And the church on the major square, along with the convent and grounds, are also worth the stop. But the prize of Coyoacan is the Blue House, the home of Frida Kahlo, the iconic artist of Mexico. The house is just gorgeous, with exhibits of her wardrobe and history. And so many of the rooms are set up just as if Frida had only left that morning. I wish I could move in tomorrow.
San Angel is close to Coyoacan and also artsy with gorgeous architecture, cobblestone streets, and parks. The Saturday market is full of fantastic local art and the convent grounds here are some of the most beautiful I have seen in Mexico.
And finally, though not on many visitor’s radar, is Xochimilco. If you love a little local experience with lots of laughter and kitsch, you must ride the trajinera (flat bottomed-boats) on the network of canals. The experience is very touristy but very local. The departure from the dock is chaotic but the canal eventually widens and your boatman will punt you slowly down the canal as mariachi bands play, canoes come alongside to sell beer and food and head wreaths and all sorts of other things, and you relax as the afternoon goes by. The banks of the canals are full of flower farms and homes and twisted tree roots and dolls (yes, I said dolls). It is fun and unlike anything you will experience anywhere else.
Mexico City is known as a food Mecca and this can be seen all over the city. Do not be afraid to eat from the many food stalls and trucks and carts you will find all over the city. Be brave and eat the way your host country eats. It will all be worth it, I promise! If you can, also sample some of the higher end establishments. Boundaries are being pushed and new spins are being placed on traditional food. If you are a foodie, CDMX will lure you back again and again.
Though I have given you quite a few ideas in this post, I highly recommend private tours to make the most of your stay in CDMX. They are not as expensive here as you might think AND you have the added benefit of getting so much more history and flavor from your guide. The culture and history are deep here and I would not want you to miss any of it.
A few tips:
Ubers are plentiful and inexpensive all around the city. I recommend them over the taxis. Or your hotel can also arrange transportation for you. If you do not mind spending more of your time navigating on your own, CDMX has excellent public transportation, including a subway and bus system.
Unlike what many people think, Mexico City is no more dangerous than most major cities around the world. The same precautions should be taken. All of the neighborhoods I have mentioned here are very safe.
The currency is the Mexican Peso. Most large shops, hotels, and restaurants take credit cards. Most markets, food stalls and carts, and some transfer companies will only take cash. Some will take USD but very few will take anything else. And many will only take pesos. ATM’s are plentiful but always have cash on hand.
Talk to everyone. The Mexican people are unbelievably warm and friendly and helpful. You may run into some language barrier but I have found most of them speak better English than I (embarrassingly) speak Spanish!
I hope this post has inspired you to visit one of my favorite cities in the world!