Travel Journal: India - Delhi and Rajasthan
Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Sometimes in our lives, if we are lucky, our travels take us to places that reshape how we think. That is powerful stuff and a tall order. I consider myself very fortunate to have traveled to a few places that have forced me to stop and rethink my world view and the lens through which I see life.
India not only shifted my lens but completely broke down some of my decades old thinking. India taught me the value of erasing the white board of expectations we carry and to let it just roll over me. More importantly, India stopped me from trying to impose some sense of internal order shaped by my Western upbringing and see the beauty just as it is, for what it is.
Before you think I am a dreamer who is looking at India through rose colored glasses, I see the issues though I am sure I don’t know all of them. The bureaucracy that impedes progress, the level of manual labor used to run the most basic of functions, the lack of good water - I did not miss it. I am talking about seeing the beauty and resourcefulness and resilience in spite of all of it, or maybe because of all of it. And for that, my thinking was entirely reshaped. And I will always be grateful.
Delhi
The first part of my trip was Delhi and Rajasthan, the “Golden Triangle”, typically visited by most first time travelers to India. Though I always encourage people to travel to the less traveled places, I also recognize that the iconic spots are iconic for a reason. And the Golden Triangle is a good place to start for any first time traveler to India. I loved every minute of it.
The trip started in the capital of India, Delhi, also her most populous city. Delhi is beautiful and chaotic and crowded and I loved it. It is also very green, full of parks everywhere. I was not expecting that in a city so populated. The Indian government has made a concerted effort to continue to expand its green space to help combat the poor air quality in Delhi as well as give the majority apartment dwellers a green space in which to walk, play, exercise, or whatever suits their fancy. The parks are beautiful and used by all the citizens of Delhi.
Humayun’s Tomb, Delhi
There are many historical sites in Delhi. In Old Delhi is the Fama Masjid Mosque, a beautiful example of the architecture from the days when the “Mughals” invaded India from Mongolia and held power for hundreds of years. The Tomb of Humayun is stunning with beautiful tile work and lattice, where Humayun and some of his family are in eternal rest, and is long considered the forerunner to the Taj Mahal. The grounds and the gardens, though not the splendor they once were, are still beautiful to stroll through. I especially loved the mosque on the grounds and the tomb of the King’s barber.
Qutub Minar, Delhi, India
Hands down my favorite historical site we visited was the Qutb complex, the site of Delhi’s oldest fortified city, Lal Kot. The Qutub Minar, a 73-meter tall minaret that soars above the complex is stunning, constructed in the 13th century. The tower is surrounded by beautiful examples of Indian and Mughal architecture set on beautiful, well-maintained grounds. There were people strolling all over, clearly a popular spot for the residents of Delhi.
If you are in Delhi, you simply can not miss taking a rickshaw through old Delhi. With its super narrow alleys lined with shops, the crazy traffic, and the streaming pedestrians, Old Delhi takes you back in time and gives you a taste of what is to come all over India - a mix of old and new spiked everywhere with the most beautiful color. Check out the video above for a little taste!
Leaving Delhi, we ventured forward into Rajasthan, probably one of the more popular states for tourists. The remainder of this part of my journey took me there.
Taj Mahal, Agra, India
Agra
Agra is best known for the Taj Mahal, one of the Seven Wonders of the World. Though I was blown away by the Taj Mahal, there is so much more to Agra than the Taj Mahal and I recommend you stay an extra day to explore. You have the Agra (or Red) Fort, where Shah Jahan’s son imprisoned him and he asked for a room where he could see the Taj Mahal. Also, be sure to check out the entire grounds of the Taj Mahal site.
The star of the show in Agra is the Taj Mahal for good reason. Built in the 1600’s, it is not only stunningly beautiful but an engineering marvel. Built by Shah Jahan to show his love for his third wife, Mumtaz Mahal. It is the most beautiful monument to love ever built. Sadly, she died before ever entering the Taj Mahal.
Darwaza-i-rauza (or “Great Gate”) and a portion of the char bagh garden, Taj Mahal complex, Agra, India
Most people visit at sunrise or sunset, with beautiful golden light shining on the entire complex. The detail work and the engineering forethought are mind blowing. The Taj Mahal itself is built on a series of huge wooden pilings under the foundation. It was built at a bend in the river where the water would hit the pilings in a certain way to prevent rot. Sure enough, the Taj Mahal and its pilings and foundation have stood the test of time. The intricate beauty of the building itself is just stunning, with mirrored areas meant to catch the light and look like flowers emblazoned on the side. I do suggest going with a guide who will point out all the intricacies of the architecture as well as the hundreds of stories surrounding this amazing wonder.
Unlike many other historical sites around the world, the series of shops and stalls lining the road into the Taj Mahal are actually quite good. If you have the time, stroll down the avenue and peruse all of the beautiful locally made items. Or come back in the evening when the area is quite lively.
Chand Baori Step Well, Dausa, India
We left Agra for Jaipur but first, we made a stop in Dausa to visit one of the most beautiful step wells in India, the Chand Baori Step Well. If you get a chance to visit a step well, take the opportunity and go. They are another engineering marvel that are just stunning and found only on the Indian subcontinent.
Amber Fort, Jaipur, India
Jaipur
Jaipur, the “Pink City” is known for its pink colored walls, lively markets, camel carts, cows, rickshaws and robust textile industry. Beautiful fabrics are produced here. If you are looking to pick up some shirts or tunics, Jaipur is the place. There are several reputable shops where you can pick out your fabric and they will make clothes to your specifications, delivered to your hotel that evening. All for a fraction of what it might cost elsewhere. Needless to say, a few found their way into my suitcase for the return trip!
Jaipur is also well known for the Amber Fort, one of my favorite sites in Rajasthan. The Amber Fort is a massive structure built in the late 1500’s with a fort surrounding a large area as well as living quarters for the King and his family. You can see a lot of the fort if you wish to spend the entire day but the main attraction is the living quarters.
Mirrored courtyard, Amber Fort, Jaipur, India
Broken up into areas for the King and the men, another for all of his wives, and some central areas for presentations and ceremonies, as well as entertainment, it is an intricate and detailed complex. You can see the areas for cooking, steps leading up to the walls of the fort, gardens, and all sorts of areas that were used by the royal families over the centuries. Again, it is simply an engineering marvel. Don’t miss the area made up entirely of small pieces of mirror created to be fully lit by just one candle.
You will see elephant rides being given here. We were happy to hear that this practice is diminishing and the Indian government has said that no new elephants will be placed in captivity for this practice.
Warning to the wise, the cleaners with brooms in their bright colored saris will take a photo with you. And then they will demand money. Just skip the photo if you don’t want to pay. And, generally, the habit is frowned upon to stop this practice.
If you get a chance, stop at the Jal Mahal, the water palace, built as a summer retreat for the King right in the middle of a lake. Worth a stop for the photos. And definitely stop for a photo op at the Hawa Mahal, the “Air Palace”, one of the most famous of the pink buildings in the city. It is actually more of a facade, made up of hundreds of latticed windows where the ladies could go sit and see the activity of the city without being seen behind the lattice screens. There is actually nothing but a series of cubicles behind it but the facade is drop dead gorgeous.
The City Palace is another must see. The Palace itself is beautiful, currently separated into the living quarters of the King and his family (a king by name only with no power or authority) and an area you can visit. The external areas are beautiful and intricate. The inside areas have been turned into a museum of the textiles, art, furniture, and weapons of bygone days in Indian history. Our guide regaled us with wonderful stories of the battles and the kings and who it was that wore the biggest pants I have ever seen!
Dancers in Jaipur, India
Other highlights in Jaipur were belly dancing, chatting with local artisans, taking part in a blessing ceremony at a Hindu temple, and visiting a local market.
City Palace, Udaipur, India
Udaipur
Hands down my favorite city was Udaipur. Smaller than all the rest I visited, Udaipur is the “City of Lakes”, sometimes called the “Venice of the East”. The city is set in a ring of hills with seven man made lakes all around the city. It was an interesting mix of modern and old, naturally heavily treed throughout. There was something wonderfully calming about Udaipur. Maybe it is the presence of so much water but it just made you sit back and relax.
The City Palace in Udaipur is an interesting mix of old and older. You can clearly see the additions as each generation of kings occupied the palace. There are skinny hallways and stairs, a mix of old and new from Europe, signs of a lavish lifestyle (check out the pool on the roof!), and traces of the majesty that was once this kingdom.
Views from Lake Pichola, Udaipur, India
If you have time, enjoy a boat ride on the largest of the lakes, Lake Pichola. It is always lovely to see the landscape from the water. If you buy tickets on the royal boats, you will get a chance to stop at the summer palace on the lake. Though mostly used for weddings and events these days, it is a lovely piece of architecture in the middle of the lake.
There is a fun cable car that can take you to the top of one of the hills. The views are stunning from the top and the cable car a fun experience. For the adventurous among us, you can also climb the stairs to the top. Keep an eye out for a prowling leopard that is occasionally spotted!
The bridesmaids’ gardens are a lovely way to spend an hour or two. Located behind high walls in the middle of the city, these gardens were created for the women centuries ago. For a long time, women were not allowed to be seen in public. This created a lonely existence for the women, with little occupy their time. The gardens were built as a sort of recreation area for the women where they could swim and paint and generally be outdoors. Currently, it is a beautifully maintained garden with fountains and different areas to explore. Really beautiful.
Market in Udaipur, India
The local market in Udaipur is my favorite. Full of locals doing their daily shopping, you will find fruit and produce, spices, baskets, and all sorts of every day items. Often there are artisans making their wares right in front of you. The colors of the fruit and the spices and the saris all blend to create a really lovely experience. No one tries to get you to buy anything - this is just an every day market. It is a wonderful glimpse into a tiny piece of everyday life.
We returned to Delhi where some of my colleagues headed home and I turned towards the second part of my trip: safari in India. Watch for more on that soon.
The Oberoi Amarvilas, Agra, India
Some Other Notes About India
I have had the great fortune of traveling well in my life, both for leisure and in my past corporate positions. I have experienced many 5-star hotels and airlines and have had amazing, unique experience for the past 3 decades. The service levels in India are the highest I have ever experienced anywhere. Yes, I did stay in 5-star hotels while there but the service surpassed anything I have ever experienced over the years in any other destination. I was not just impressed, I was utterly blown away.
Expect noise and chaos as you traverse the country by vehicle. Relax because somehow it all works. What began for us as an overwhelming sense of chaos ended up being the BEST source of entertainment. Driving in India is like no where else. Sit back and just take in the uniqueness! It goes without saying that I do NOT (!!!) recommend self drives in India.
Take in everything around you. The color that the population inserts into every part of their life is artistry. Emerald greed sari’s being laid out on gray rocks to dry. The color of spices in the markets. Splashes of color on houses. The completely decked out truck cabs. If you love visual color, you will be in heaven.
Man going to market, India
The Indian people may approach you for photos with you. They are amazingly polite and will always ask first. And they are so appreciative when you agree. Do know, however, that once you say “yes” to one, you may be may find yourself mobbed by people lined up with their cell phones. Especially if there is a blonde person in your party. We found them to be polite and the groups very safe. But it can be time consuming and you may want to know when your limit is up and politely signal that you are done with a smile.
Many sites in India are extremely old. A comfortable pair of walking shoes is imperative. Understand that there may be many steps and these, most likely, will be very uneven. And handrails are non-existent. If you have mobility issues, you must let your advisor know ahead of time so they can help you plan accordingly.
The capital city of Delhi has a great Metro system, relatively new (2002), safe and easy to use. The first car of every train is reserved for women only, making it a place free from some of the harassment that Indian women may feel in public places. Most of the professional women we spoke to all use the Metro and love this safe space for women.
Traditional Indian meal in Agra, India
When dining, please remember cows are sacred so no beef exists anywhere, on any menu, in any home. Please respect this. There are other forms of meat available for the meat eaters - pork, lamb, mutton, and goat - as well as seafood options, especially in the south. Many, many Indians are vegetarians so these options are widely available across the country. Also, alcohol is not a staple in the Indian menu so do expect there to be times when it is not available, especially when eating in local establishments.
The water in India is generally NOT safe to drink. If you are staying at high-end hotels, they all have water filtration systems so it is usually okay to brush your teeth with the water. However, I would not drink it, even in small amounts. Always, always drink bottled water when traveling around. And always drink from a bottle only you have opened, ensuring it is sealed before opening. Also, avoid salads and fruits that do not have a peel unless you have checked and make sure they are washed with filtered water. “Delhi Belly” is not a myth and can ruin days of your trip.
Mostly, I hope you sit back and let India wash over you and show you what she’s got, as I did. She does not disappoint. The beautiful people, the color, the history, the food … even the “cacophony of sound” my friend had told me about … I loved it all and can not wait to go back.
I just wanted to leave you with this video, my favorite one from the entire trip! It still makes me laugh months later. If you ever want to know the whole story, you know how to get in touch.
Resident peacock on the grounds of The OberoiRajvilas, Jaipur, India
Recommended Hotels in India (related to this trip)
While on this trip, I was a guest of some of the Oberoi hotels and would recommend every single one of them. As I said previously, I have never experienced such a high level of service that was both impeccable and thoughtful. I tip my hat to the Oberoi staff for empowering their employees to go above and beyond for their guests.
I also want to note that the rates of these 5* hotels allows one to travel in this absolute best style without breaking the bank. India provides some of the best value for your dollar that I have experienced.
The Oberoi New Delhi (5*)
Situated in a peaceful section of New Delhi, this hotel provides a tranquil home to return to each day. The rooms and suites are incredibly spacious with floor to ceiling windows, with oversized bathrooms and beautiful tubs just waiting for a soak. There are two restaurants on the property (I recommend the smaller of the two), a spa, pool, and beautifully manicured grounds to stroll.
The Oberoi Amarvilas, Agra (5*)
The Oberoi Amarvilas is probably the loveliest property in Agra with every guest room and suite overlooking the Taj Mahal. Their pool is a perfect place to spend the day and enjoy all this hotel has to offer. They have a lovely restaurant with beautiful patio seating for meals and snacks throughout the day. They also have a spa, nightly local entertainment at sunset, and some of the most beautiful grounds I have ever seen.
The Oberoi Rajvilas, Jaipur (5*)
Featuring traditional architecture, nestled in a sprawling garden setting, The Oberoi Rajvilas is an absolute treat. Guestrooms and suites are spread out in very small little complexes or stand alone. They even have some luxurious tented facilities. Peacocks roam the grounds and hang out with everyone at the pool. Local artisans come to share their art each evening. At the center of the property is a beautiful templ where we were fortunate to have participated in a traditional ceremony.
The Oberoi Udaivilas, Udaipur (5*)
If one could have a favorite, this would be mine. Set on a sprawling property right next to Lake Pichola, you will find guest rooms and suites with plunge pools, swim up pool access, or a patio with your own entrance to the pool. The property glimmers at night as you enjoy a meal or cocktail lakeside with views over Udaipur and the mountains and lake. Interconnecting hallways bring you to restaurants, bars, the spa, or gardens. This hotel is an absolute gem!
The Oberoi Gurgoan, Delhi (5*)
Located close to both domestic and international terminals of the airport, this is the perfect “last night” hotel. Situated in a growing part of Delhi, there are restaurants, bars, and shopping at your doorstep. The hotel is beautiful and modern , with spacious rooms and a gorgeous glass and steel facade.
Other Properties I recommend in the same cities:
The Imperial Hotel, Delhi (5*)
This hotel feels like you are transported back in time to the colonial era in India’s history. The building and all of the art, photographs, and memorabilia are steeped in history. This is a heritage property so the rooms are smaller but still very comfortable. The restaurant, “Spice Route”, is a must for every traveler to Delhi. The spa is the best one I experienced in the country. And you are steps away from a lively market in case you decide to take a walk.
Trident Agra (4*)
The Trident hotels are the 4* properties of the Oberoi Hotels. They feel very authentically Indian while offering the high standard of Service expected from Oberoi. The rooms are spacious, the lobbies lively, and the food excellent.
Andaz Delhi (4-1/2*)
Located in the new Gurgaon area, this hotel is perfect for the hip traveler. The rooms are spacious and sleek. The spa is excellent, even allowing you to create your own spa experience. The AnnaMaya restaurant experience is delicious, a sort of upscale food hall eatery. Overall, this property has the coolest vibe in the area.